tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53676588360345666652024-03-13T19:14:40.480-07:00"LILY"Hot Rod Shift Knob's Tall 1926 Ford Model THouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.comBlogger118125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-12611351990748861202019-02-17T05:16:00.001-08:002019-02-17T05:16:52.602-08:00TRANS TUNNEL AND FLOOR FABRICATION<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
A quick update on Lily's floors and the transmission tunnel. We've just made some real progress and I'm getting quite proficient at building stuff out of cardboard. We've got the floors cut, bead rolled, and welded in and now it's time for the trans tunnel. </div>
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More cardboard, careful measuring and coaching on the English wheel, not to mention the manual metal bending equipment. This is the part where it's starting to become a lot of fun. </div>
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Unfortuneately, Lily is going to have to go on the back burner for a bit while I pursue gainful employment. That's a story for another day, but stay tuned as I will now shift from actively working on the car to purchasing the parts needed to finish it. </div>
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All part of the process of building a car from scratch. More to follow, </div>
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-89183145926700662852018-12-11T04:54:00.000-08:002018-12-11T05:16:31.765-08:00FABRICATING BODY MOUNTS. <br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
In this installment of the Tall T chronicles, we're creating the mounts that will attach the T's body to the frame which needs to be done before me finish the floorboards. As Charlie put it, a little overkill goes a long way towards a solid ride. With that in mind, we will create ten frame-to-body mounts:<br />
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<li><i>Two mounts just behind the firewall </i><i>(Shots Three and Four)</i></li>
<li><i>Two tabs just rear of the front door jambs (Shots One and Two)</i></li>
<li><i>Two mounts on either side of the trans tunnel anchored into the transmission cross member </i></li>
<li><i>Two mounts rear of the doors </i></li>
<li><i>Two tabs at the rear of the frame </i></li>
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<i>Many builders simply tap threads into the walls of their frames or cross members and call it a day, which doesn't really give a bolt much contact area. Not us. We're going to countersink coupling nuts into the frame at six points and will be running four tabs with 3/8" on our frame tabs.</i></div>
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<i>SHOT THREE: This is the passenger side of the frame just prior to the frame's kick-down. </i></div>
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<i>The cowl has been lifted off to allow access. The smaller hole has been filled using the circular piece leftover from cutting the larger hole. The new hole, flush with the inner firewall, will allow us to plumb wiring to the back of the car. I used a lathe to shave down the puck which then fit nicely in the existing hole and then we undercut the edge to roughly 45-degrees so that the final weld would fill nicely and allow us to grind it smooth without losing the integrity of the weld. The puck has a 3/8 hole in the center which will ultimately accomodate a body bolt.</i></div>
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<i>SHOT FOUR: This is the driver's side, where we performed the same procedure. </i></div>
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<i>It is temporarily tacked in place and still needs finish-welded and grinded. </i></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: Times; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></table>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9V5QMqTu6Wo/XA6Fvb_qhzI/AAAAAAAAGBE/utnmvnxEVaMdLv8rs9SFgDoupwrT8opIACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-12-10%2Bat%2B9.26.30%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="765" height="331" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9V5QMqTu6Wo/XA6Fvb_qhzI/AAAAAAAAGBE/utnmvnxEVaMdLv8rs9SFgDoupwrT8opIACLcBGAs/s400/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-12-10%2Bat%2B9.26.30%2BAM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>SHOT FIVE: Shown above is the type of coupling nut I welded to the reverse side of the pucks and then are tacked into the frame. There will be at least four more holes drilled and filled in this fashion.</i><br /><br /><br />Next, I fabricated four tabs for the outer edge of the frame, using 2"X 3" steel tubing angle cut 45 degrees. I scribed my marks carefully using a T square then gave the radial arm saw and bandsaw a workout.</span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;">I made flat pieces for boxing the long sides after centering 3/8" backing nuts and welding them into place.</span><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />So there you have it. The body mounts are being fabbed and will soon be welded in and we will soon be fabricating the floors, the rear driveshaft loop, and the transmission tunnel. We will also be welding in tabs for the secondary firewall. More on that later.<br /><br /></span>HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-36362313460445167602018-10-16T19:56:00.002-07:002018-10-16T19:59:20.403-07:00MISC. WIRING SUPPLIES<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WRNHOJPMmNs/W8ahX5hnYoI/AAAAAAAAF_Y/ibnk8tPW4RYA7LQLx_mTmWX_heiyqE8jwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-10-16%2Bat%2B9.38.49%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="326" data-original-width="699" height="149" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WRNHOJPMmNs/W8ahX5hnYoI/AAAAAAAAF_Y/ibnk8tPW4RYA7LQLx_mTmWX_heiyqE8jwCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-10-16%2Bat%2B9.38.49%2BPM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Just read on the HAMB about a product that I may have a need for in the near future. The product is <a href="https://www.motobilt.com/product/zip_tie_tabs">metal tabs</a> made for welding onto frames, firewalls, etc., so that zip ties can be used to keep wires tucked and neatly plumbed.</div>
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Another product I found interesting is this <a href="http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=245/category_id=15/mode=prod/prd245.htm">split loom material</a> from Haywire & Co., which is better than the crappy plastic stuff but more forgiving that cloth looming on shrink tubing, which cannot easily allow for wires to be added or redirected. </div>
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-18363364038108183702018-08-31T17:17:00.000-07:002018-08-31T17:24:51.685-07:00CINDERELLA'S SLIPPER: THE 401's PULLEYS AND FAN BELT<br />
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Thanks to a little luck and my nailhead parts stash, I discovered that I had matching three-groove nailhead crank and water pump pulleys to replace my misaligned single-groove units.<br />
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With the Alan Grove custom Alternator bracket installed, I attempted to measure for the proper V-belt and missed by roughly a mile. After taking fan belt measurements in the most logical way imaginable using a length of string, I discovered I don't know dick about measuring for a fan belt.<br />
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I consulting the Alan Grove instructions that came with my brackets and it recommended<br />
a size range from 51 & 1/2" - 52 & 1/2".<br />
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I went to my local Advanced Auto and ordered three sizes.<br />
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And the winner is...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gates 52 & 1/8" PN 11A1310 or 7516</td></tr>
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I've now got my alternator, water pump and crank pulleys in close-to-perfect alignment. I also detail painted the fan in silver and universal gold to match the engine and utilized a fan extension, Now the only thing left is to contact the fine folks at Alloyboltz.com to get four of their stainless steel polished bolts to replace the bolts that came with the kit.<br />
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I'm looking forward getting the over to Mercury Charlie's to finish the floors and getting on with the build. Cooling system, brakes, driveshaft, transmission, and installing a wiring harness still needs to be done.<br />
<br />
We have miles to go yet, but I'm happy with the progress. Onward!<br />
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-1021699405090727702018-08-13T04:39:00.000-07:002018-08-13T07:37:34.070-07:00PULLEY MEASUREMENTS AND ALTERNATOR MATH With the new water pump and timing cover mounted, I find myself one step forward but two steps back. My stock single V-groove water pump pulley and my stock single V-groove crank pulley aren't in alignment. With both mounted, my water pump's pulley sticks out 3/4" of an inch further than my crank's pulley.<br />
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For the sake of discussion, I took shots. And measurements.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AGy95jEVpk8/W3GUMRuEMCI/AAAAAAAAF94/6gcp4EpRzIgCm-TPPrXR42HGrTRGCkBLACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-08-13%2Bat%2B9.16.45%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="437" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AGy95jEVpk8/W3GUMRuEMCI/AAAAAAAAF94/6gcp4EpRzIgCm-TPPrXR42HGrTRGCkBLACLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-08-13%2Bat%2B9.16.45%2BAM.png" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">6&3/16" across, holes are 1/2" and 3/8" across, center opening is 3& 1/4" across.<br />
]This is its face.] </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water pump pulley is 6& 3/4" across.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oLcmZVRMyBo/W3GUOa4jUFI/AAAAAAAAF-I/euF3Pok_7WUUg-qOT-c766hnWvo1z0XBACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-08-13%2Bat%2B9.21.13%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="384" data-original-width="699" height="175" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oLcmZVRMyBo/W3GUOa4jUFI/AAAAAAAAF-I/euF3Pok_7WUUg-qOT-c766hnWvo1z0XBACLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-08-13%2Bat%2B9.21.13%2BAM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crank Pulley is 1 & 1/8" deep.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water pump pulley is 1&9/16" deep.s</td></tr>
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A quick measurement of my water pump pulley revealed that my top pulley (WP) is 1 & 1/4" inch deep. And a Part Number: 1368358. If my calculations are correct, that means a 2" deep GM single V-groove pulley is what I need to have both single V-groove pulleys in alignment.<br />
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Then it occurred to me. With my new Alan Grove alternator mount (PN 240-R) now in place, I really need to mount an alternator before I solve my pulley-alignment conundrum.<br />
<br />
That way, all my pulleys will be in place and I'll be able to take proper measurements and determine whether a nailhead multiple-grove pulley (two or three) is the appropriate fix, or whether I can pull off getting three single-pulleys in perfect alignment, which would be the cleanest scenario.<br />
<br />
So off I went shopping for a quality alternator, leading me to Powermaster alternators and numerous options. After comparing their most expensive PowerGen, the alternator that looks like a generator. Nice product, but I had three problems:<br />
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I: I can't afford it to pay multiple hundreds of dollars for an alternator, no matter how stealthy and period-correct it looks.<br />
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II: The PowerGen appears to have a differnt mounting system that my new Alan Grove bracket.<br />
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III: With the 6X2 Eelco intake on the docket as my final intake of choice, the PowerGen's depth<br />
appears to put it back further back towards the engine in what I'll refer to as "The Interference Zone".<br />
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As much as I'd love to have an alternator that looks like a vintage generator, I don't need to take expensive risks.<br />
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<br />
Nobody wants an expensive part that interferes with an even more expensive part. That's how projects end up staying projects. So with my custom alt bracket and making everything fit in mind, I<br />
looked for the most aesthetically pleasing solution.<br />
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A drum roll, please...<br />
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Ladies and gentlemen, I proudly present the PowerMaster 12si, a 150-amp, single-wire alternator available in a variety of finishes including chrome, polished, and black, and what you see here, which is called their natural finish. An alternator that uses the stock mounts will make beautiful music together with my Alan Grove bracket. At least that's the hope.<br />
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Given all the work I've just performed to make my open engine compartment a thing of beauty, I went back and forth considering finish, but ultimately decided the "natural finish with gold post" best matches the gold and aluminum look I've got going.<br />
<br />
As sexy as the chrome and polished alternatives sound, I think a natural finish with a few coats of VHT clear, will get me to heaven.<br />
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So there you have it. the next spend on my endless list to Tall T happiness.<br />
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The other option is the "smooth look" 12si (150-amp) option, which is more expensive but probably the cleanest looking set-up and therefore the one I'm most likely to go with.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xz8qj8i8uiU/W3FwO4XMtsI/AAAAAAAAF9k/S0tC3iVBvUkdjvp_syUpI3CTCTtJ-XvnQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-08-13%2Bat%2B6.45.24%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="585" height="283" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xz8qj8i8uiU/W3FwO4XMtsI/AAAAAAAAF9k/S0tC3iVBvUkdjvp_syUpI3CTCTtJ-XvnQCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-08-13%2Bat%2B6.45.24%2BAM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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What started as a pulley dilemna, is now an almost two hundred dollar alternator. It never ends.<br />
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-71572792343460447682018-08-11T13:35:00.002-07:002018-08-11T13:35:26.881-07:00ALAN GROVE BRACKETS, HURRAH!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's nice when a part arrived with detailed instructions that are actually detailed and instructive.<br />
Case in point, the paperwork that arrived with my alternator mounts purchased from Russ Martin, at Nailhead Buick. Russ has been patient and answered a lot of question, and so far, everything I've purchased from him has been of the highest quality. My Alan Grove alternator mount, PN 240R being no exception. It's set up to mount the alt on the upper passenger side, so that the alternator is as far back as possible.<br />
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The Alan Grove part when in like butter, and except for the fact that I'm swapping out the bolts for polished stainless steel pieces from Alloyboltz.com, everything went in perfectly. In fact, that's proof of a great instruction sheet with 100% accurate diagram.<br />
I've even breaks out the nuts and bolts and specifies exact size bolt sizes and including specs for the washers. I've got Alan Grove mounts on my stroker motor in Ratiki, my '65 Suburban, and once again I must say I'm impressed. Particularly with how detailed the instructions were, which made installation a breeze and ordering polished stainless steel replacement bolts and washers a walk in the park.<br />
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We aren't out of the woods yet, though as we still have the alternator to mount and the pulleys to line up. PResently, my crank pulley and water pump pulley are having a 3/4" disagreement. But that's a problem for another day, and Russ Martin and I are working on the solution.<br />
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e're getting closerHouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-34779104047272047512018-08-05T10:56:00.001-07:002018-08-05T10:56:18.429-07:00INTERIOR COLOR STUDY<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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With the engine color figured out, now's a good time to see what interior options exist in the same gold as the engine color. Tina @ A Stitch in Time was good enough to ask her suppliers to provide a few lighter gold color samples.<br />
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The good news is we're batting two for three.<br />
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I'm really digging the brighter choice, which has a little more pop to it. Funny, because that's the opposite way I arrived at the Universal Gold VHT high-temp paint I chose for my nailhead engine.<br />
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It was the lightest and subtlest engine color I found and to me, felt more early-sixties than the oranger and blingier high-temp engine paints I tried. Universal Gold was the third paint I tried and three being a charm, that's where I landed.<br />
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None of my local auto parts stores carried it, which is surprising to me, as it's a dead match for the sixties Oldsmobile V8s.<br />
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So I guess now my Ford now has a Buick motor in an Olds shade. Onward. And the interior is no headed in the same direction. We're still looking at options, including clothes and brocades, but if we go there, you can bet it will be judiciously. A little goes a long way in such a small interior.<br />
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.HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-18565258620308870582018-07-31T10:55:00.001-07:002018-07-31T10:55:33.905-07:006X2 CARB SCHEMATIC -BORING BUT NECESSARY<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Being the kid who took apart the poster but could put it back together again taught me humility.</div>
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And now that I have a Smartphone, I might as well be smart about disassembly. I try to remember to take lots of pics before tearing anything down. </div>
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So above is my rough schematic of the carbs and the Eelco linkage layout. </div>
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This is pretty boring shit, but believe me, it could make a huge difference when it comes time to hook this 6X2 up down the road. Nothing much to see here. </div>
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Unless you're the one hooking my linkage back up. </div>
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Move along. </div>
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-60637833104455291952018-07-31T10:48:00.000-07:002018-07-31T10:48:09.495-07:006X2XBADASS!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Scored this old skool Eelco log style intake for my 401 Nailhead last week. Just in time for my birthday thanks to a very understanding wife. It all started innocently enough when I was researching induction systems after chatting with nailhead gurus DualQuadDave on the HAMB and Russ Martin @ CARS / Buicknailhead.com. </div>
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Both were quick to point out that nailheads like a healthy amount of CFM. Especially given the fact that I've got a little more cam than the stock setup.A 3X2 is undercarbed. A single 4 bbl wants to be at least 800 to 900 CFM. </div>
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I knew it was down to a 2X4 of a X2. With the prices of dual quads -- at least the good ones-- going crazy, I was pretty amazed when a Craiglist ad popped up for a 6X2 nailhead intake just a couple of hours away. I called and had a chat with its owner and as luck would have it, he was selling his intake to pony up dough for another build, a 27 Model T. </div>
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When I told him I was building a 27, it seemed like an omen that I should buy the intake. And while I didn't steal it, I felt that it was priced squarely in the get-it-while-the-getting-is-good camp.</div>
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Even though I was earmarking the transmission for my next big-budget item, I couldn't help but jump at the chance to get this rare period-correct intake. In fact, I've yet to find another one like it in Google searches. The center two carbs were rebuilt and it was setup to run just the center carbs. </div>
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But it came with six carbs and a complete set of linkages. It even included a fuel log, albeit it is kind of janky. Everything else looked good, so I asked the seller if he was motivated enough to meet me in Buda to show me the intake after a chat about it. </div>
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Everything was as described and I felt like it worth the investment. Now granted, I'm a long way from needing it, but it's sure nice to have. I'm getting ready to box it up and tuck it out of sight so I can keep focused on the job at hand. </div>
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But before I do, a complete teardown and detailing was in order. </div>
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The grime was only superficial. I spend the weekend cleaning the logs, and once that degreasing job was done, I turned to the linkages, taking numerous shots for reference before tearing it down. A couple hours on the bench grinder with a wire wheel and we're in business. </div>
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Here are some shots.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1I1xNcCKFNk/W2CYU_sR-KI/AAAAAAAAF54/kjhfwW4aNE8U7Ru53rspDko5y28vdUZ8gCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-30%2Bat%2B11.27.31%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="436" data-original-width="249" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1I1xNcCKFNk/W2CYU_sR-KI/AAAAAAAAF54/kjhfwW4aNE8U7Ru53rspDko5y28vdUZ8gCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-30%2Bat%2B11.27.31%2BAM.png" width="182" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8LPZYCp0rLc/W2CYVkVccmI/AAAAAAAAF6E/bpxLu4L_ZIABq8nrZq92XVG1w_jLJpUsgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-30%2Bat%2B11.27.56%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="302" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8LPZYCp0rLc/W2CYVkVccmI/AAAAAAAAF6E/bpxLu4L_ZIABq8nrZq92XVG1w_jLJpUsgCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-30%2Bat%2B11.27.56%2BAM.png" width="229" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XCO9KVyUqEU/W2CYWSBgUzI/AAAAAAAAF6M/Sm5Qh8nyr5UfvdVD4iqJOiI8x834UopwgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-31%2Bat%2B12.08.36%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="472" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XCO9KVyUqEU/W2CYWSBgUzI/AAAAAAAAF6M/Sm5Qh8nyr5UfvdVD4iqJOiI8x834UopwgCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-31%2Bat%2B12.08.36%2BPM.png" width="272" /></a></div>
<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-40315292979234435692018-07-25T20:45:00.001-07:002018-07-25T20:45:39.107-07:00200R4 TRANS SOURCEhttps://transmissioncenter.net/shop/transmission-200-4r-level-1-stock-plus-mega-valve-and-upgraded-torque-converter-copy/HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-72630820253937200852018-07-22T12:41:00.001-07:002018-07-22T12:41:03.300-07:00TRANSMISSIONS: SWITCH PITCH VS. 200R4. OLD SCHOOL VS. OVERDRIVE AND DEEP FIRST?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8AFaZjdKADI/W1SYiW_WZ5I/AAAAAAAAF5s/kKAqIPyfVxQmHfn_6T6vdLFfRc7y7knnQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-22%2Bat%2B9.42.53%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="476" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8AFaZjdKADI/W1SYiW_WZ5I/AAAAAAAAF5s/kKAqIPyfVxQmHfn_6T6vdLFfRc7y7knnQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-22%2Bat%2B9.42.53%2BAM.png" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Above, A 200R4 with the adaptor available through Russ Martin and highly recommended by </span><span style="font-size: large;">DualQuadDave on the HAMB.</span> </div>
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You learn something new every day if you listen to the right nailhead gurus. </div>
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Dave Gaines being this blog's subject. </div>
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It's one thing for a nailhead guy to swear by his own parts, but another when a nailhead guy who makes a living selling nailhead parts and modifications swears by someone else's stuff. Case in point, the trans adaptor above available through Nailhead.com</div>
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It all began innocently enough as I was researching nailhead intakes on the HAMB and came across some posts by DualQuadDave. It reached out to him with PM that soon led to a discussion on the topic of nailhead intakes, and transmissions.</div>
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When I told Dave of my plan to run a vintage switchpitch, he threw his .02 in. But I liked what he had to say, which is basically this: the 200R4 with the right parts is a great choice particularly in cars that need all the interior room you can get.</div>
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Here was Dave's logic about running a 200R4 using Russ Martin's adaptor. With my 9" rear's gears and rear tire diameter in mind (3.50/29.6'') , Dave felt that the 200R4 would be a great choice based on the following criteria:</div>
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A numerically lower first gear of 2.40, combined with the overdrive forth would give me the best of both world's as and much floorboard space as possible. And any 200R4 built well would do the trick. Granted, the tranny would cost more than the switch pitch I've been thinking about and there is the expense of the trans adaptor. Nonetheless, Dave made a pretty compelling case for spending m6 money with someone else.</div>
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Of course, we also talked about Dave's upgraded pushrods and springs for the nailhead so I'm not off the hook yet. Dave explained that hardened push rods and better springs make all the difference in performance so I've resigned myself to give it some real thought.</div>
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On the subject of induction, Dave is a big fan of dual exhaust set-ups and felt Russ Martin's manifolds were my best bet. But he was also a huge fan of 2X6 intakes, but strongly recommended getting the car running as phase one, and going with multiple carbs as phase two. </div>
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And so there you have it. More to think about. Thanks for all the great info, Dave. </div>
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a which requires some modicompact transmission. </div>
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tranny and wo</div>
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-82935478131974914662018-07-22T07:37:00.002-07:002018-07-22T07:37:34.469-07:00TORQUE SPECS AND NAILHEAD WISDOM -- RUSS MARTIN RULESI've got to say I'm humbled. In the last two weeks, I've had two nailhead experts indulge me and give their two cents about my T build.<br />
<br />
Russ Martin gave me about a half hour of his time after I read most of the infor on his Nailhead Buick site. I purchased a bunch of parts from him because I wanted him to undstands how much /I appreciated his time. Sure, I could have probably found them for a buck or two less using<br />
coupon codes and HAMB alliance vendors and what not.<br />
<br />
But when someone gives you their time and great advice freely, I believe you should reciprocate.<br />
I did. Polished Fenton VCs? Check. Polished Valley pan with PCV? Check. Custom alternator bracket? Check. Gasket set? Check.<br />
<br />
Russ not only got my business for being a good guy, he talked me out of a polished oil pan that would have left a permanent mark on the first speed bump. <br />
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And now as I tear down my 401 nailhead for a thorough detailing, the value of an expert like Russ become even more important. Becuase Russ does more than sell nailhead parts. He posts torque specs on his <a href="http://centervilleautorepair.com/tech-info/264-322-364-401-425-bolt-torque-specs">site</a>. Thanks, Russ. I'm sure I'll be buying more from you and sponging more info as I move to the transmission.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RuTrcm80O64/W1SWF-c29nI/AAAAAAAAF5g/AYKn4hzeKjwsMI-jATTR3At284m77yfLQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-22%2Bat%2B9.34.38%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="146" data-original-width="253" height="230" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RuTrcm80O64/W1SWF-c29nI/AAAAAAAAF5g/AYKn4hzeKjwsMI-jATTR3At284m77yfLQCLcBGAs/s400/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-22%2Bat%2B9.34.38%2BAM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Russ Martin's Nailhead powered Buick roadster. Hen's teeth are more common. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-42907806998877452692018-07-19T16:43:00.001-07:002018-07-19T17:30:23.138-07:00THREE'S A CHARM - STRIKING GOLD<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KowdH7IjUS8/W1EZYC-cGvI/AAAAAAAAF5Q/_ptqyXH8KlcdQMvGWIc0zQ0z563h6KMtQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-19%2Bat%2B6.05.05%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="440" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KowdH7IjUS8/W1EZYC-cGvI/AAAAAAAAF5Q/_ptqyXH8KlcdQMvGWIc0zQ0z563h6KMtQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-19%2Bat%2B6.05.05%2BPM.png" /></a></div>
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Whoever it was that coined the phrase, "three is a charm" knew what they were talking about. </div>
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After trying two other shades of engine paint on the intake of my 401, I've finally found the shade I was looking for. VMT, Universal Gold high-temp engine paint, it is. </div>
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So I sprayed it on the new ploished valley pan I got through Russ Martin @ Nailhead Buick. </div>
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Next step? Coating the block and burying it in high temp clear. </div>
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I'm currently researching engine coatings for the exhaust, water pump, intake and Zoomie style exhaust. More soon! </div>
<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-51572608831874992122018-07-08T05:06:00.000-07:002018-07-08T12:58:30.738-07:00RADIO, RADIO...One of my goals for "Lily" is to have a nice stereo system in her. I know it's not very hot rod. It's actually more of a custom touch. But for my money, it's the often the custom touches that mean the most to me. Something that would disguise an MP3 setup nicely.<br />
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So, on Mercury Charlie's recommendation that I look for a cool old era-correct unit to upgrade,<br />
I followed the Buick cue of my drivetrain and looked at Buick AM radios from the sixties, eventually dipping back into the fifties, bringing me to a pretty cool looking unit.<br />
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A 54, 55 fully contained Buick unit. Which led to the notion of incorporating one of these beauties into my interior as a console rising up off the trans tunnel and perhaps blending into the dashboard.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kp6KGPkFwDo/W0H6JgVafEI/AAAAAAAAF40/03pcwCcb4vo7zh46cWk6XfMlLxzHOnbDwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-07%2Bat%2B9.38.00%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="482" data-original-width="550" height="350" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kp6KGPkFwDo/W0H6JgVafEI/AAAAAAAAF40/03pcwCcb4vo7zh46cWk6XfMlLxzHOnbDwCLcBGAs/s400/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-07%2Bat%2B9.38.00%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
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I was reminded of a unit that Sean Johnstun (Fat Lucky's) built years ago for an owner who loved the look of old amplifiers. MAybe merging these two references will get us to an interesting place.<br />
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Maybe not. But it's sure fun thinking about.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aXIzYHE1JPc/W0H9AnfXXzI/AAAAAAAAF5A/3QOpQUsXURwQ3vWyjFtLJPQRY3_lmc_ZACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-22%2Bat%2B5.07.26%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="212" data-original-width="319" height="265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aXIzYHE1JPc/W0H9AnfXXzI/AAAAAAAAF5A/3QOpQUsXURwQ3vWyjFtLJPQRY3_lmc_ZACLcBGAs/s400/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-22%2Bat%2B5.07.26%2BAM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
Who knows if we'll actually use something along these lines, but it would definitely look cool and the built-in speaker could be a nice solution for an interior with space limitations.<br />
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These are the thoughts that race around in my mind when I'm waiting for the first cup of coffee to brew.<br />
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Some people cure cancer. I think about customs. It takes all kinds.<br />
Onward.<br />
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HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-19926982658706708412018-07-05T20:25:00.003-07:002018-07-05T20:25:29.703-07:00SPOKE TO A NAILHEAD GURU TODAY<br />
After spending an inordinate amount of time researching nailhead information on the internet, and<br />
seeing a lot of differing opinions. I reached out to a man whose name I'd heard for years. Russ Martin of Centerville Auto Repair and the Nailhead Buick website is a true nailhead guru.<br />
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Half an hour on the phone with Russ gave me absolute clarity on any of number of subjects including carburation, intake manifolds was nothing but gracious and answered a litany of questions I had about nailhead in general and the set-up for my T.<br />
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We not only talked parts, as Russ has one of the largest selections on the 'net and a ton of technical information as Well. When I got off the phone, I hade tremendous clarity about how I wanted to move forward with my build and for that, I'm truly grateful.<br />
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Simply put, after getting Russ MArtin's opinions, I wanted to spend my money with him.<br />
Here's a list of the parts I ordered.<br />
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<ul>
<li>A complete gasket set</li>
<li>A new, made-in-the-USA water pump</li>
<li>A new timing chain cover</li>
<li>A new fuel pump</li>
<li>A pair of polished Fenton valve covers</li>
<li>A polished valley pan with oil spout and PVC</li>
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$1,150 later I was much closer to having my engine dressed to impress.<br />
ready. The last remaining items being multiple carbs, whether 4X2's, or 2 X4's.<br />
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Some stuff I learned from asking Russ point blank abut various parts of my build plan.<br />
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SWITCH PITCH TURBO 400:<br />
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Russ is a big fan. Strongly recommended a small 12" convertor for such a small and relatively light car as my T. Has one in one of his cars, and is running a 12" torque converter from a 300 ci Buick. Has his variable lockup wired to a high/low dimmer floor switch switch and a dash light to indicate when in use. Reports about a 400 rpm RPM awing when it's in use. Loves his.<br />
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INTAKE MANIFOLD:<br />
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Russ recommended a 4X2 setup using an Eelco mainifold, which is a repro of a Weind. <br />
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CARBS<br />
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2X2 is not enough carburation. Larger nailheads need a lot of carb according to Russ is a fan of the 2X4 setup with Edelbrock 600s, specifically the new AVS 2's.<br />
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VALVE COVERS:<br />
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VC hold down bolts are longer, but no longer available. Russ recommended using 5/16th course threaded rods and acorn nuts.<br />
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VALLEY PANS:<br />
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The polished seven fin with oil spout and PCV will work well with no other brathers. It will not work on the factory 2X4 intake. Will work with all aftermarket 2X4 intakes. <br />
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HEAD GASKETS:<br />
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Russ strongly recommended changing the head gaskets because FelPros are commonly used and don't hold up well.<br />
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HEADS:<br />
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Proper torque specs are very important. make sure heads are properly torqued when head gaskets are installed. NEVER use hardened seats to a nailhead.<br />
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Special thanks to Russ Martin for all the great information. And if you're looking for nailhead parts or great advice, I strongly recommend you call or email Russ at 530 272- 1564, or nailhead_russ@yahoo.com<br />
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www. http://centervilleautorepair.com/<br />
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Marty is not a fan.<br />
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A single 4bbl or even 3 two barrels is not enough carburation for my 401.<br />
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Russ shared a ton of learning with me. I was able to ask him about the parts I was considering and he had nothing but good advice.<br />
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From our<br />
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as while no expert,HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-4068381692477073652018-06-20T07:20:00.001-07:002018-06-22T08:53:03.030-07:00LILY COLOR STUDYOkay gang,<br />
This is my favorite part. Charlies and Tina and I started doing the rudimentary planning for Lily.<br />
Without giving away trade secrets, we've got a plan in the works. Three colors. Deep Purple. Light Gold. White. That's it.<br />
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Engine: Aztec Gold<br />
Interior: Pearl White<br />
Exterior: Dark Purple Suede<br />
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BODY: A PURPLE DEEP ENOUGH TO BE A BIT SINISTER. WE'RE TALKING ABOUT A SUEDE-LIKE TEXTURE. THAT'S ALL I WILL SAY FOR NOW.<br />
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ENGINE: </div>
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ABOVE: VHT SP404 Gold Flake Hi-Temp</div>
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I'm leaning in the direction of a Rustoleum color with a clear on top. </div>
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The Clear would want to be baked on. More on that later. First at low temp </div>
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200 degrees, then at 400 degrees. More on this later. </div>
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A good reference for light gold. Not too orangy or blingy. </div>
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. </div>
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Lee Pratt's engine. Tasty and understated.</div>
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INTERIOR REFERENCE:</div>
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Good color reference. Stitchwork is way too blingy. </div>
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To tufted, but like the comfiness.</div>
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Very nice and clean. Two tone to add bling?</div>
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See next note. </div>
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Too much, but love the wraparound effect, and the center division between seats.</div>
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A cross between prior and this one would be cool. A little more bling. </div>
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REFERENCE: SMS Fabrics website. </div>
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SMS FABRICS</div>
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A Fat Lucky's interior.</div>
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This is the perfect example of restraint, "The Texas Playboy" built by Brian Bass </div>
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with interior by Fat Lucky's.</div>
<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-7087811185029740612018-06-19T08:16:00.003-07:002018-07-05T20:26:31.677-07:00TRANSMISSIONS: TURBO 400 vs. 4l60 E <br />
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Bendtsen's trans adaptor kits<br />
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http://www.transmissionadapters.com/53-66_nailhead.htm<br />
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-78808164497231494312018-06-17T20:15:00.002-07:002018-06-17T20:15:51.870-07:00FRESH METAL<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Just got my rear corner patch panels and the new rear valance from MAC's to match my new tail lights from Dave Nowicky @ Throwback Hot Rod Designs. </div>
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Now all I need is a killer metal guy. Ah, progress. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jcm-bwiUITA/WycjJuiJIBI/AAAAAAAAFzQ/QC6aey7ZEAMGBBbqvzC3u7OZbuqHD_97QCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-17%2Bat%2B9.54.43%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="1180" height="369" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jcm-bwiUITA/WycjJuiJIBI/AAAAAAAAFzQ/QC6aey7ZEAMGBBbqvzC3u7OZbuqHD_97QCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-17%2Bat%2B9.54.43%2BPM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-74915535860366077192018-06-15T05:20:00.000-07:002018-06-15T05:20:09.275-07:00THROWBACK SAND-CAST TAIL LIGHT HOUSINGS.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: EBGaramond, "EB Garamond", Georgia, "Times New Roman", Times, serif; font-size: 18px;">Just when I thought my tail light search was going to drive me over the edge, along comes Dave Nowicky of Throwback Hot Rod Designs. To those who haven't had the pleasure, Dave had taken it upon himself to create the perfect solution, IMHO. His sand-cast tail light housings come in several styles and can be ordered raw, or in polished form, which the beauties I'm sharing with you today did.</span><br style="background-color: white; font-family: EBGaramond, "EB Garamond", Georgia, "Times New Roman", Times, serif; font-size: 18px;" /><br style="background-color: white; font-family: EBGaramond, "EB Garamond", Georgia, "Times New Roman", Times, serif; font-size: 18px;" /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: EBGaramond, "EB Garamond", Georgia, "Times New Roman", Times, serif; font-size: 18px;">The tail lights arrived with everything a knucklehead needs to install 'em, short of a stepped drill bit, a Sharpee and a measuring tape. Rumor has it that Dave was inspired by Madonna's bra when he came up with the pair I'm rocking here, but many more options are available via the Throwback Hot Rod Design website: </span><a class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="proxy.php?link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.throwback.design%2F&hash=c3d1d54cface546b892ecf7c37de10ab" href="https://www.throwback.design/" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: white; border-radius: 5px; color: #cc0000; font-family: EBGaramond, "EB Garamond", Georgia, "Times New Roman", Times, serif; font-size: 18px; margin: 0px -3px; padding: 0px 3px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">https://www.throwback.design/</a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I spent the morning mocking up four different combos and here they are:</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G0lnxq8-trM/WyMquq7HK-I/AAAAAAAAFyE/fjZDHV4EArkXT1g1GtP7l59uAycIImHIwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Option%2Bthree%2Btal%2Blight%2Bthree%2Bbar.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="394" data-original-width="499" height="504" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G0lnxq8-trM/WyMquq7HK-I/AAAAAAAAFyE/fjZDHV4EArkXT1g1GtP7l59uAycIImHIwCEwYBhgL/s640/Option%2Bthree%2Btal%2Blight%2Bthree%2Bbar.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vauibh9A900/WyM8iAt8THI/AAAAAAAAFyw/Uv-HuiliBPccTPG6pvMGeqW1B1ggGx_fgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-14%2Bat%2B9.33.40%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="416" data-original-width="564" height="472" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vauibh9A900/WyM8iAt8THI/AAAAAAAAFyw/Uv-HuiliBPccTPG6pvMGeqW1B1ggGx_fgCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-14%2Bat%2B9.33.40%2BPM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t4MEWPZ6L-Q/WyM8OZP0wRI/AAAAAAAAFyo/RNbCGJTENQgdJBeayZwlDviaUAiUS1HRACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-14%2Bat%2B9.50.08%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="461" data-original-width="650" height="452" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t4MEWPZ6L-Q/WyM8OZP0wRI/AAAAAAAAFyo/RNbCGJTENQgdJBeayZwlDviaUAiUS1HRACLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-14%2Bat%2B9.50.08%2BPM.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These two styles are very similar but the one of the left had deeper recesses and slightly more circumference.<br />
(See shot below for details)<br />
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AND THE WINNER IS:<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3tc4vC7Oui8/WyOu2PDZ9-I/AAAAAAAAFzE/qXknTm6n7ggivOp71SN6dmwCF_qx0a9fwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-14%2Bat%2B11.41.39%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="677" height="472" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3tc4vC7Oui8/WyOu2PDZ9-I/AAAAAAAAFzE/qXknTm6n7ggivOp71SN6dmwCF_qx0a9fwCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-14%2Bat%2B11.41.39%2BPM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-69367568249602884672018-06-02T14:02:00.002-07:002018-06-02T14:02:20.159-07:00ENGINE DETAILINGStarted some light teardown and detailing of my nailhead.<br />
Off with the stock 4bbl intake and Holley carb. I'm strongly considering painting the engine after doing a good cleaning. I picked up two cans of Hot Rod Red at Napa yesterday, but will like have to pull the block out to do a great job, which would allow me to get the Turbo 400 dialed in. New seals, etc. Will likely paint the trans to match the block. <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7-QNX2kb8c/WxMBP_kjCdI/AAAAAAAAFxg/WidMEjzW9ksZ7vU6dBVAOvUnlfO-49YEgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-02%2Bat%2B3.41.39%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="383" data-original-width="292" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7-QNX2kb8c/WxMBP_kjCdI/AAAAAAAAFxg/WidMEjzW9ksZ7vU6dBVAOvUnlfO-49YEgCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-02%2Bat%2B3.41.39%2BPM.png" width="486" /></a><br />
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I took the liberty of mocking up the 4X2 intake I bought five years ago at the Lone Star Round Up. </div>
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I'm one carb short of a full mock-up. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WMgIH1E1X7o/WxMBP1H4ucI/AAAAAAAAFxk/ugSh5o7Wl2EWdOwlKdOZVUoPcy7zj2m4gCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-02%2Bat%2B3.42.03%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="374" data-original-width="377" height="634" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WMgIH1E1X7o/WxMBP1H4ucI/AAAAAAAAFxk/ugSh5o7Wl2EWdOwlKdOZVUoPcy7zj2m4gCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-02%2Bat%2B3.42.03%2BPM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-6146552392260900412018-05-31T09:36:00.001-07:002018-05-31T09:41:31.791-07:00PREPPING MY SPEEDO & CENTERING IN DASHDid a some light fabrication work this morning.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sPv1dhCylro/WxAk4oSBDsI/AAAAAAAAFxI/6jSd3K5B8J4qDvXdv9Piym9XuCt67pDIwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-31%2Bat%2B11.37.01%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="466" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sPv1dhCylro/WxAk4oSBDsI/AAAAAAAAFxI/6jSd3K5B8J4qDvXdv9Piym9XuCt67pDIwCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-31%2Bat%2B11.37.01%2BAM.png" width="256" /></a></div>
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I took a Dremel cut-off wheel to the dash material surrounding my Riviera's gauge and removed all the excess hard plastic material.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3YEk4MI-yF8/WxAk4ocki2I/AAAAAAAAFxM/oxuxzOfb7tg4G59gCmBmmRL16No28pV8wCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-31%2Bat%2B11.37.21%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="461" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3YEk4MI-yF8/WxAk4ocki2I/AAAAAAAAFxM/oxuxzOfb7tg4G59gCmBmmRL16No28pV8wCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-31%2Bat%2B11.37.21%2BAM.png" width="241" /></a><br />
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Next move, remove the dash and figure out the best way to center the speedo in the existing dash, or a fabricated dash. Thinking a shallow sunken headlight bucket might be a nice touch and allow me to point it slightly towards the driver.<br />
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I'm planning to mount the accessory gauges up above in the header panel, just above eye line so the road remains my main focus. Could also angle the gauges slightly towards the driver at same angle as the speedo. Might even mount the gauge in a headlight bucket for dramatic effect.<br />
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The Glader roadster Pinkee's built a decade ago is a good reference:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MqvhilHpdxA/WxAjZpUVCHI/AAAAAAAAFw8/FNQZQ9Vq0G8FvlhPgRP90vcvON32gt3MACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-31%2Bat%2B11.30.28%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="243" data-original-width="288" height="337" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MqvhilHpdxA/WxAjZpUVCHI/AAAAAAAAFw8/FNQZQ9Vq0G8FvlhPgRP90vcvON32gt3MACLcBGAs/s400/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-31%2Bat%2B11.30.28%2BAM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-1376806162515916722018-05-30T10:33:00.000-07:002018-06-17T20:30:27.607-07:00WHEEL SPACERS -- DOH!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ekYyswIMK8M/Ww7cW7sycJI/AAAAAAAAFwo/Wb4wTNZnrb08DEncmTP3mhGUfHuvJ_jngCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-30%2Bat%2B12.15.31%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="471" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ekYyswIMK8M/Ww7cW7sycJI/AAAAAAAAFwo/Wb4wTNZnrb08DEncmTP3mhGUfHuvJ_jngCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-30%2Bat%2B12.15.31%2BPM.png" width="238" /></a></div>
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How tight is too tight as far as tire clearance? Allow me to illustrate. Our John's Industries rear end is in and we have too issues with it. One it's just a hair too narrow. And it isn't centered with the suspension plumbed. So I've decided to kill two birds with three stones. Wheel spacers.<br />
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I'm ordering a set of three wheel spacers for my 5X 5.5" wheels in1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" thickness. That'll give me three options to push both wheels out equally.<br />
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I figure the right space behind the rear wheels will fix the issue. It remains to be seen whether a swap to longer wheel studs will be necessary. I look at it this way. It's the perfect The perfect excuse to order a set of 1/2"-20 bullet style lugs for my rear wheels. Come to think of, a whole set would be pretty nice.<br />
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<a href="https://www.titanwheelaccessories.com/products/2pc-1-4-billet-wheel-spacers-5x55-or-5x1397-bolt-pattern-25-thick-fits-jeep-cj-dodge-ram-ford-bronco-trucks-and-more">Here's where I found what I'm looking</a> for.<br />
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Stay tuned to see the results.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QdSl_Pfs8AY/Ww7cW9XBbhI/AAAAAAAAFwk/6gWojuvpzxs5dNP9oxG_pQhMOl1YjzOZQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-30%2Bat%2B12.15.46%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="text-align: start;"> </span><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="472" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QdSl_Pfs8AY/Ww7cW9XBbhI/AAAAAAAAFwk/6gWojuvpzxs5dNP9oxG_pQhMOl1YjzOZQCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-30%2Bat%2B12.15.46%2BPM.png" width="241" /></a></div>
HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-42426832325622895092018-05-26T14:52:00.002-07:002018-05-26T15:22:29.331-07:00TALE OF THE MISSING EAR. RUNNING THE NUMBERS<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">THE AUSTIN T PARTY: RUNNING THE NUMBERS or </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">I decided to do some sleuthing to determine the exact drivetrain beyond the info provided by Ian Loska when I bought his 1929 roadster</span><span style="background-color: white;"> over a decade ago and got the drivetrain that will soon be powering "Lily" out of the deal. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So I headed out to the garage, pad in hand, and pulled as many ID #'s as I could find from the engine and trans:</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CtEwlSVkosE/WwnVIz_6hvI/AAAAAAAAFwE/6a3StHipE0YW6FdxfrhCQi2opc7MkZJIQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-26%2Bat%2B4.43.08%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="367" data-original-width="439" height="267" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CtEwlSVkosE/WwnVIz_6hvI/AAAAAAAAFwE/6a3StHipE0YW6FdxfrhCQi2opc7MkZJIQCEwYBhgL/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-26%2Bat%2B4.43.08%2BPM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I recall that Ian Loska mentioned the engine and trans came from a wrecked ‘66 Buick he’d scored off of Craigslist in So Cal. According to Ian, it had been rebuilt just before being totaled due to a freak accident that involved a lady's Buick rolling out of her driveway, crossing a rod and becoming intimate with a neighbor's tree. Ouch. Weird, the stuff you remember. We’ll call that <span style="color: #c00000;">detail #1</span>. <span style="background-color: white;">I also remember one of the many quirks I loved about Ian’s car when I test drove it in L.A.was that he'd rigged a pushbutton that acted like a transmission kick-down to his Turbo 400's 3-speed. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">We’ll call that </span><span style="background: white; color: #c00000;">detail #2</span><span style="background: white; color: black;">. Unfortunately, I totaled the car ten days after it arrived. We'll call that a detail I'd rather not get into other than to say it was an unfortunate situation that wasn't my fault but led to a protracted battle with Liberty Mutual Insurance, who tried desperately to screw me. Raging assholes. There, I said it.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back to fonder memories. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I remember that the Nailhead and Turbo 400 in Ian’s roadster had quite a bit of scoot for a car with a factory Buick 12-bolt with “freeway” gears. I’m guesstimating 2.73 or 2.93, which were both common to Buicks back in the sixties. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nevertheless, that "kick-down" switch really woke the car up. I now realize that what Ian had behind the nailhead was a “Switch Pitch” or “Variable Pitch” Turbo 400, which is a rather rare variant of an otherwise common transmission. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">Good news for me. We’ll call that </span><span style="background: white; color: #c00000;">detail #3</span><span style="background: white; color: black;">. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a little web-surfing, I found the final clues that solved the engine’s year, if not but its exact cubic-inch displacement.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here’s what I found online that sealed the deal on the engine. In 1966 only, Buick had an “ear” on the rear of the block. It was a circular hook which no doubt made maneuvering the engine easier and installation more efficient. I also learned that the block has a casting mark adjacent to the ear that identifies it as a 401/425.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here are the numbers I pulled from my engine:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bell housing Engine #: B1364705 = 401/425<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heads: 374603 = 401/425<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Intake: 1375549 = 401/425<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Valley Cover Stamp = Partial stamp. Unreadable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Factory Casting Stamp Block = Rectangle = 401/425</span><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">THE ENGINE IS DEFINITELY A 1966 401/425. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">BUT WHAT ABOUT THE TRANSMISSION?</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I pulled the following #s off the transmission’s ID tag. “125. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>89FYA. 5365.” Further investigation revealed that the transmission is a 1966 Turbo 400 “Switch Pitch”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Badass. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">That explains the push button switch that I thought was merely a downshift. What I hadn’t realized at the time, was that I was experiencing a feature that GM engineers had pioneered on Cadillacs, Buicks, and Oldsmobiles, from 1965-1967. The “switch pitch” gave the driver the ability to alter the torque converter’s stall speed for more pulling power such as on a steep grade. Damn cool. </span><span style="background-color: white;">After just three years, GM’s bean counters phased out the switch pitch option, but 60’s racers and street rodders used it to their advange for years. It was a shade-tree performance hack that blew a lot of minds to be sure.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Never mind that it allowed a large Buick engine to deliver far better gas mileage. What it also allowed was the off-the-line performance of a far steeper gear, while simultaneously offering the enhanced gas mileage form Buick's "highway" gears.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Further reading also pointed out that having a good transmission cooler is to vital to keeping the “switch pitch” happy. Good to know.</span><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">SPECIAL THANKS TO RUSS MARTIN FOR A LOT OF GREAT INFO.</span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you'd like to learn a shot ton about Buick nailhead or find a great selection of hard to find parts, check out <a href="http://centervilleautorepair.com/">Centerville Auto Repair</a> and Russ's excellent collection of Nailhead tips, knowledge, and parts.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T4zZZm0Buzk/WwnWusx5qvI/AAAAAAAAFwQ/ENrIDtBrmWsxN6MAp5AC-FHpyflMEWpQACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-26%2Bat%2B4.50.19%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="685" data-original-width="820" height="267" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T4zZZm0Buzk/WwnWusx5qvI/AAAAAAAAFwQ/ENrIDtBrmWsxN6MAp5AC-FHpyflMEWpQACLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-05-26%2Bat%2B4.50.19%2BPM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Can’t wait to get this switch pitch back and nailhead back on the road. So there you have it. Lily’s drivetrain is a 1966 401/425 Nailhead with a 1966 Turbo 400 Switch Pitch trans. </span><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">NEXT UP: IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black; font-size: 14.0pt;">Pulling the engine and trans for a deep cleaning, deburring and prepping for paint is in the near future. T</span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 14pt;">hen it’s time to play dress-up. Thanks for taking a T break with me.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">INSPIRATION. STAY TUNED.</span></div>
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-73120646744450163742018-05-06T06:45:00.003-07:002018-05-06T06:50:31.345-07:00OLDS STEERING WHEEL MOCKUP<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpenZuHBJr4/Wu8GVhuDlnI/AAAAAAAAFvA/NcxZpnOR1cwfv30A_RKR0IBc9sSb6FLQACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpenZuHBJr4/Wu8GVhuDlnI/AAAAAAAAFvA/NcxZpnOR1cwfv30A_RKR0IBc9sSb6FLQACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2449.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In keeping with the early to mid-sixties theme, I mocked up a 1962 Oldsmobile Steering wheel that came from the same model as the taillights mocked up yesterday.<br />
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I figure I should try to nail down these elements and then build to integrate them, with capturing an overall consistency to the look. The Oldsmobile steering wheel has a deep pitch that strikes me as kind of gothic, which is in keeping with Lily's overall aesthetic.<br />
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It becomes immediately apparent how little real estate is available for interiors gauges, once the wheel is in place. That's leaning me in the direction of running ancillary gauges in the T' header panel with only the speedometer being integrated into the dash.<br />
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I need to dig out my Riviera speedo and mock that up next.<br />
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More details later.<br />
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<br />HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5367658836034566665.post-70203926365000340282018-05-05T11:09:00.000-07:002018-05-05T11:09:41.084-07:00TAILLIGHT OPTION (62 OLDS STARFIRE)<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: , , , ".sfnstext-regular" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;">And so it begins. Mock-up. 62 Oldsmobile Starfire taillights on the T. Something different for Lily. Thoughts? Looking at heights. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: , , , ".sfnstext-regular" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>HouseOSpeed - www.HouseOSpeed.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17082956369687354000noreply@blogger.com0