A THREE-PHASE BUILD PLAN.

I'm breaking the build into three phases:

1. Build frame and make it into a roller with engine, transmission, rear end, driveshaft, suspension wheels and tires installed. Not running, but rolling.
2. Blast body and DP-90 it. Mount body to frame. Install radiator and grill shell. Fabricate floors. Install pedals and master brake cylinder. Install seats. Headlights. Tail lights. Instrument panel. Steering column. Roof. All glass. Temp Wiring. Get running. Install gas tank.
3. Break car down into pieces, prep frame and all components for plating, powder coating, etc,
install sound deadener, vibration dampening, exterior and interior paint. Install all glass.
Paint body, engine and detail all engine accessories. Upholster seats, door panels. Install wiring, stereo,
AC, heat, gauges.

Phase one begins in December. I will be taking all the components from my 29 and tranferring them to my T. The drop axle tube front end, steel wheels and tires, 425 Nailhead, Turbo 400, 12-bolt rear end,
drive shaft, steering column, steering box and headlights will be dropped off at Mercury Charlie's do that Charlie can build the T's frame and complete Phase One. Charlie and I contacted Pete and Jakes and costed out all the components for their Ladder-bar style traverse spring rear suspension.
I'll be ordering the parts this month to arrive at Charlie's by the end of the month. We'll be off and running soon.

WHEEL CHOICE

The era I'm looking to capture with the T build is the early sixties. Mercury Charlie's original T and the Munster's coach are heavy influences.

I've always loved the steelies that Charlie ran on his T, but my instinct is to go with a more ornate design, such as the Radir like the Clark Bates-built blue T below.

 Another interesting option is the ever-popilar Cragar SS, which receives much less play among the Model T and A crowd, which frankly makes it all the more attractive to me. 

The car below is one of the only T's I've ever seen with Cragar SS wheels.

This much I'm sure of. It will definitely use a hodgepodge of carefully blended used parts, have a dark colored paint job, and be almost devoid of chrome dress up items (other than the wheels themselves). 

I'm going for a decidedly goth vibe without it being at all ratty. 

And it will be built from the ground up using quality 60's parts throughout.

Stay tuned. 

REAR SUSPENSION AND PROPER REAR GEARING

After talking to Charlie about the rear suspension and rear end for the T, Charlie recommended I contact Pete and Jakes to get some parts prices. I chatted with Jason at Pete and Jakes, who provided a couple of options. Charlie and I discussed those option and landed on the following set-up. We're going run ladder
bars with a 40 Ford style low-arching traverse spring. Here's a breakdown with Pete and Jakes Part #'s for the Ladder/Traverse Spring Rear Suspension:

Model A Ladder bar kit PN 2011

40 Ford style spring PN 3058

Brackets PN 5019

Rear shock kit PN 1070

Rear Crossmember for traverse spring PN3016

On Charlie's recommendation, I also inquired about rear ends with both P&J and John's Industries. 

Both Jason (@P&J's) and John (owner of John's Industries) very helpful and really took the time to base recommendations on my intended use. After discussing what I intended to do with the car, which was simply cruise it, both gentlemen encouraged "highway gears". Their rationales were almost identical. I'm building a light car using a 425 ci engine that normally came in a heavy car. Heavy cars generally were equipped with 2.75-3.0 gears. Knowing the car would be about half the weight of its original car, Jason and John both strongly advised I go with something close to factory gearing since that was what the engine was originally matched to. I based my discussions on the fact that I'd be running a 30" cheater slick. In looking at the cost differences between posi and an open rear, I was quite surprised that Jason suggested that the open rear end was a great option versus a posi. Unless I was planning on drag racing or desperately wanted to leave "twin black marks", he felt that the posi was overkill and actually might make the car less forgiving, should it break loose when jumped on. He recommended a 3.00 or 3.25 gear, so that RPMs would be in the comfotable cruising zone at highway speeds, ultimately recommending 3.25s. Having the same conversation with John, netted his recommendation to go with a 3.00 gearing so that cruising at 70 would put me in the 2000-2200 range. I was quite surprised that two such knowldgable guys would recommend freeway gears. What neither one knew is that I had a 12-bolt one-legger from a 66 Riviera at my disposal but had looked beyong it figuring I wanted both posi and steeper gearing. Wrong on both counts. We're going to go with the 12-bolt as long as its width works in our favor (It was originally purchased for my 29 roadster).

Here are the number for both gentlemen should you need some sage advice
from two guy who clearly know their rears from a proverbial hole in the ground.
Jason @ Pete & Jakes: (800) 334-7240

John's Industries: (800) 332-2450

THE T BUILD IS STARTING BACK UP.

I had a great chat today with my wife about the roadster build. I told her I wanted to wait until we got back to Austin or at the very least have the roadster built in Austin rather than here in Denver. So although my parts pile has grown nicely in the time that I've been here, the roadster isn't going to be built anytime soon. The good news? Instead of initiating the build of the roadster, I'm going to start back up on the T. Instead of continuing to collect parts for the roadster, I'm going to have the chassis built for the T. A quick call to Mercury Charlie, and we set a plan in place. I'm going to be calling Pete and Jakes this week to check prices on their ladder bar type rear coil over suspension. Once I have that price, I can call John's Industries and get a price quote on a complete 9" rear end. Then with those parts ordered to be received at Mercury Charlie's, Charlie will start setting up the frame for my 425 nailhead/Turbo 400 combo. This is going to be fun.

SEAT SCORE

My son Drew came across four really interesting bar stools  this weekend while thrifting in our new hometown of Denver. Knowing I'd been scouting for seats for my Econoline and my Tall T, he called me at work and described the bar stools to me. I planned to go see them ASAP.

The next morning was Saturday, so I made a bee line to the thrift store. Imagine my delight when I came upon the seats you see here. Better yet, they had been marked down an additional 50% since when Drew saw them. I bought all four. It's great having a son who find gems like this for me and the price was more than fair. It was ridiculous. Thanks, Drew.

COOL INTERIOR FABRIC

Wouldn't this make a badass headliner and door panel material inside a custom Tall T?

ANOTHER T IS MAKING THE ROUNDS

Look what popped up at this year's Hunnert Car Pile-Up. A Tall T. I dunno about the no front brakes part but I like the slightly broke-back look. That Hemi looks pretty potent to me. Anyhow, enjoy the pics. You'll find more shots from said event on the HAMB. 

Note the tiny grill shell with Moon tank.

Louvers on the trunk lid and a radiator beneath. 

Hemi with a 6-pack. Purdy.